Touring Bikes Frames, Best Framesets, and Bicycle Frame Geometry.
The bicycle frame is the most critical component of any cycle. A touring bike frameset is the heart and soul of the machine. It determines the bike's handling, feel, and comfort. Once a frame is purchased and components assembled around it, the frame is difficult to change.
Touring bike frames can last for decades. You will replace worn out parts and may upgrade components on your bike. A frame will probably be used for years unless you made a mistake in frame selection that had to be replaced it. These mistakes include buying the wrong size or the inappropriate type of frame for the intended use (road, mountain, touring). In short, if you buy wisely you have just added another member to your family but if you get something you do not like it will have to be lived with or sold.
Frames with Bicycle Touring Specific Geometry
Many different types of frames have been retrofit for touring. I have seen cyclocross, hybrid, triple ring road bikes, and lots of mountain bikes carrying people in their travels. If you mostly use the bike for something else and only occasionally tour then this may work well. The best bicycle for travel is an actual touring bike. Touring bicycles are designed from the ground up for the specific purpose of traveling with loaded panniers. This is not to say that a touring bike could not be used for other applications like commuting, dirt roads, and recreational road riding. By nature touring bikes are multi use. Touring bicycle geometry has many unique details that make it best for travel but the key features are described below.
- Long Wheelbase: Bicycles meant for loaded touring have a long wheelbase (the distance between the two hubs). This is beneficial in many ways. This keeps the bike steady for all day riding. It takes less effort to balance and hold the bike up. A long wheelbase reduces the quick agility necessary for road racing but is much better for long distance cruising. A long wheelbase carves turns instead of being jittery. Sure, you can not turn as tight as a road bike but most public roads are not like a race course. A long wheelbase provides plenty of room so heels to not hit rear panniers and toes and fenders do not collide.
- Low center of gravity: Lowering the center of gravity by lowering the bottom bracket (crank set) of a touring bike is essential to all day comfort. Lowering the bike makes loads noticeably easier to control with less effort. Lower cranks also means that pedals will be closer to the road and even gentle turns can not be pedaled through. Because road racers often pedal through turns road bikes do not have a bottom bracket as low as a touring bike. Mountain bikes are designed to clear logs or rocks in the trail. Mountain bikes need high clearance just like a 4x4 truck. For this reason they have the highest bottom brackets of all bikes. This is the exact opposite need of a touring bike which is low to the ground for cruising. This is like the difference between a four wheel drive truck and a luxury sedan. Both can be driven across USA but one is more comfortable
- Designed to carry heavy loads on racks: Touring bike frames must be strong. They will usually weigh more than a road or mountain bike frame. Because of the extra weight carried on racks touring bikes experience different forces and stress points compared to other bikes. Touring bikes are specifically designed to deal with these forces just like a pick up truck is made to carry a load.
- Attachment points: Built in attachment points and brazons for racks, fenders, extra water bottles, pumps, lights, and more can be retrofit on some bikes. These adaptations are usually much weaker than an eyelet designed specifically for attachment. If you want to be sure you can mount all your stuff to your bike get a touring bike.
최대한 짧게 줄이면
"축간거리가 길고(체인스테이도 길어짐), 크랭크 축의 위치가 낮아야 하고, 프레임은 튼튼하고, 짐받이, 흙받이 등등을 위한 나사구멍이 많아야 한다" 입니다.^^
또 줄이면
"투어용 프레임을 사라"입니다.-.-
http://www.downtheroad.org/Equipment/Bikes/Touring_Bike_Frame_Geometry.htm